This is the part where I am supposed to explain what qualifies me as an expert surfer and/or writer. You will find no such explanation here.
I hesitate to call myself a writer. Writers work for publishing companies, newspapers, or magazines. They freelance. Proper writers get paid, or at least leave a groundbreaking manuscript behind before they die. However, if you were going to describe your coworker as really good at cooking, you would say they are a great cook. They (probably) have no professional training, have never worked behind swinging metal doors with windows, or been yelled at by someone trying a bit to hard to be Gordon Ramsey. Still, they are defined as a cook.
So, I guess I am a writer.
My surfer title seems deserved. Note I left out the word “good,” because I refuse to lie to you, dear reader. I grew up in Delaware and learned how to surf as a teenager. After college, I moved to San Diego with the intention to surf as much as possible while pursuing an adult life (whatever that is supposed to mean). If you see me out in the lineup, you will probably think to yourself that surfer is the most delightfully average surfer I have ever witnessed. My skill level is advanced mediocrity. I do enough to ward off the inept label, but not enough to astound you.
Surfing sucks. You constantly scrap and claw against a force whose only purpose is to build a towering mountain of water destined to detonate somewhere in the ocean. Mother nature doesn’t care about your safety or if you are enjoying yourself. Your surfing brethren also don’t care – each one a potential asshole that wants nothing more than to take your wave and ruin your day. It’s emotionally and physically draining to exert so much into a sport that cares so little.
It’s easy to lose focus on why I started surfing in the first place: to have fun. That’s why I created this blog. In a world and from a sport that wants nothing more than to crush you and demands you to beat it because you aren’t welcome, I wanted a little room to have fun. Having fun is important. It’s okay to smile.
My experiences and opinions are no better or worse than someone else’s. I just wanted to put mine somewhere for others to read and, hopefully, find entertaining. I hope you enjoy.